NZ Summer / by Mayan Smith-Gobat

I have been back in New Zealand for a few months now, and have not written anything as my life here feels rather uninteresting... but it has been really good spending the summer at home. I have been spending most of my time climbing at 'The Cave' (in Christchurch) and training on our campus board. The remainder of my time has been divided between working for my mother in our cafe (situated on the Omarama Airfield), fixing my house and chilling with friends... enjoying the NZ summer!  At the cave I have been working "Space Boy" (Extension) 8b+ (32), the first 32 in NZ. This is a route that has always inspired me, but one I thought I would never be able to do, because it has a really big span move which is totally unavoidable. I was at a loss of what to dedicate myself to when I returned to the cave in April last year. The options were quite limited because of my knee injury. Eventually, even though I did not believe that I had a chance of succeeding on it, I decided to try Space Boy, because it does not require any left heel-toes or drop-knees.

The process of working on a route where at first I could not even do all of the moves has forced me to evolve as a climber. This route has challenged me more than any other route that I have ever attempted, and has been extremely frustrating at times, but therefore it has developed my strength and patience tenfold. Attempting to Red-point Space Boy has been a very rewarding journey, even if I never succeed in climbing the route.

Space Boy 8b+, attempting 'the span'